Hot Springs National Park: Sunset Trail

I came to Hot Springs National park to hike and take in the views. The Park is located in central Arkansas and covers an area of over 5,500 acres. The park is known for its hot springs, which have been a source of fascination and healing for thousands of years.

Park History

Native American

The hot springs at the site were originally used by Native American tribes, including the Quapaw, Caddo, and Choctaw, who believed the water had healing properties. The tribes used the hot springs as a place of peace and healing, and the area became a sacred site. I was told by a local that the Indians had an agreement to put aside any disagreements and agression while they were at the springs.

Colonial Era

In the 16th century, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto is believed to have been the first European to visit the hot springs. Later, French and Spanish settlers established trading posts in the area.

During this period, the area was part of the Louisiana Territory and was claimed by both the French and the Spanish. In 1762, France ceded the territory to Spain, and it remained under Spanish control until 1800, when it was transferred back to France. In 1803, the United States acquired the Louisiana Territory from France as part of the Louisiana Purchase, which included the land that is now Hot Springs National Park. The area around the hot springs became a popular destination for early American settlers, who were drawn to the natural hot springs for their therapeutic properties.

In the early 1800s, the town of Hot Springs was founded, and a series of bathhouses were constructed to accommodate the growing number of visitors. The first bathhouse, the Hot Springs Hotel and Bathhouse, was built in 1828 and was followed by several other bathhouses over the next few decades.

National Park Formation

In the 19th century, as the town of Hot Springs grew and the popularity of the hot springs as a tourist destination increased, concerns were raised about the protection of the natural resources. In 1832, President Andrew Jackson signed legislation that set aside the hot springs and surrounding land as a federal reservation, making it the first federally protected area in the United States. In 1921, Hot Springs Reservation was redesignated as Hot Springs National Park, becoming the 18th national park in the United States.

The Sunset Trail

I started at point “1” on the map. The parking area was large enough to accommodate six cars. There was a van from Florida parked sideways taking up three of the spots. AllTrails showed The Sunset Trail as a 13 mile hike. I wasn’t familiar with the area and packed a few extra things just in case (light, knife, bear spray, etc.).

As I was stuffing the backpack and filling the water bladder, another car pulled up. The driver got out and looked at the van blocking several spots and shook his head. I said to him they parked that way and then walked up the hill. He said, where are they from and I told him Florida. He said, that means they’re from New York and chuckled.

He saw the stickers on my Thule Box and asked what I was doing and I explained. He said I got you beat and waved me over to show me all the sticker on the back of his car. We talked about The Sunset Trail and he told me which direction to start. He told me I didn’t need bear spray but bring a knife. He said,

Safety First. Don’t put yourself in a place where you have to eat a fellow hiker.

Although the trail is described as hard, it is more a moderate but long trail. About 1.5 miles out, I realized I had forgotten the SD card for the camera. I returned to the car to grab the SD, adding three miles to the hike.

The trail is well worn and there are signs that indicate the length of each segment. It is is difficult to get lost, but there are a few points where it isn’t absolutely clear which direction to go. This is where AllTrails was helpful.

I was somewhat disappointed that there weren’t more interesting views. The nicest view came near the start of the hike at Balanced Rock. The hike included some long straight sections and some long gradual climbs. There were several sections where there were flat exposed rocks on the trail and some had some nice colors when the sun hit them.

The Sunset Trail provides an exhilarating hike, with challenging up and down hilly sections that lead to a spectacular drop into the charming town of Hot Springs. As the trail descends, hikers are treated to a historic switchback trail that was once used by mules. Along the way, one can stroll past iconic landmarks such as the elegant Arlington Hotel and historic bathhouses. I paused at the natural hot spring bath for a glimpse into the area's unique geological history, and took a moment to chat with friendly locals as they filled up containers with fresh spring water. I refilled my water bladder. The water had a very pleasant taste.

The locals told me this is the only water they drink. They use the water from their home taps for everything else. One woman said, yes, but I cook with this water also. One man, said he doesn’t like all the things they put in the city water and told me he didn’t knw how much longer they would allow people to take water from the spring.

The hot springs were half way along the route. I ate my sandwich and was on my way at 1:30 pm. The trail was up hill leading out of town and wound through the hills about the town, tracking along the river, and into an area where there once was a mill. These trails were better maintained and at one point there was a shelter near a parking lot. Periodically, there were little springs along the trail. I’m not sure if the water is drinkable. The dam was put into place to provide water for the mill nearby.

I saw people on the trail at times near the car parks, but most didn’t hike more than a mile along the trail. When I made it back to the car, the sun was beginning to set. A woman pulled in beside me wearing a cycling helmet with a bike on the back of her car. She looked very distressed and was speaking very loudly on the phone. It seems there was a mountain bike accident. This point was one of the few places on the trail where I had cell coverage. She pulled out and sat behind me. About 5 minutes later, a mount rescue vehicle came by. This was followed by an ambulance, a park police car, a special truck with rescue gear and a fire truck. I wasn’t able to find details online.

I was hungry but needed to cleanup before going for food. I drove to Planet Fitness, not for a workout but a shower. I used the Hydromessage machine and relaxed.

I again tried finding a restaurant in downtown Hot Springs. The temperature had dropped and I felt the cold. I tried to find a seat at five restaurants. At the Ohio, the woman in front of me offered the door man $100 if he would seat them. He smiled and said, that isn’t going to happen and added it’s about an hour wait. He said all these people are ahead of you.

I ended up going back to Little Italy the same place I ate yesterday.

I made it back to Cracker Barrel by 9:30 pm and read for 30 minutes and drifted off pretty quickly. I was exhausted.

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